Piedmont: Italy’s secret, and often misunderstood region
Piedmont is not one of Italy’s best-known regions. At over nine thousand square miles it’s actually the second largest region of Italy after Sicily, but tucked up in the northwest of the country, bordered by France and Switzerland and ringed by mountains, it has always been known best amongst oenophiles and foodies for its magnificent wines, white truffles and gastronomy, but perhaps not thought of as a ‘destination’ in its own right. With fast trains from northern France connecting via Turin and onto the rest of Italy, it perhaps is thought of by many as more of a transit region to pass through on the way to somewhere else, warmer, further south.
And, probably because of the mountains, there is a sense that Piedmont is a cold northern region, compounded by the fact it doesn’t have a coastline, but these characterisations are not accurate. If all you are looking for is a beach, then yes, move on (although the Ligurian Riviera is only ninety minutes’ drive away), but if you’re one of the many drawn to Italy by a broader love of wine, food, culture, stunning landscapes and, yes, pretty much guaranteed hot sun in the summer (and with a pool at Villa Menaluna), then the region has so much to offer.
Getting here…
For visitors from the UK and Europe, flights are relatively inexpensive and plentiful, with four airports to choose from: into the Piedmont capital of Turin (and former capital of Italy), busier options at Milan into Linate or Malpensa in neighbouring Lombardy, and on the Ligurian coast at Genova. Trains are also possible, but whilst inter-regional trains are efficient and cheap, it’s a pity that some of the rail system within regional areas is not so great where many rural routes no longer run or are not particularly frequent. But, as we all try to ‘green’ our travel, trains are important to consider and also note that you can be in Rome by train from Turin in 4 hours. It’s also certainly easy to travel by train from many European destinations, including the UK, and to get to Asti or Alessandria, via Turin or Milan. However, for complete freedom during a visit, car hire would be best, either collected at the airport, or from either Asti or Alessandria if you do arrive to the region by train.
So why come to Piedmont?
Ultimately, Piedmont has something that is perhaps the holy grail of travel these days: authenticity. The Piedmontese are notoriously devoted to tradition and the way things have always been done, so things stay the same. There is even a saying in local dialect- ‘bùgia-nen’ - that means literally ‘stop, stand still’ and acts as a direct challenge to change.
This is a region almost entirely untouched by mass tourism. It’s not played with nor bent out of shape by commerciality. Whilst attracting non-Italian tourists is perhaps not high on the agenda for most Piedmontese, stranieri visitors are still welcomed very warmly, in part we’re told, because unlike in areas such as Tuscany, tourists don’t flood in and dominate the region every season. So, for now at least, there is no tourism fatigue here.
A case in point is beautiful Turin, the capital city of the region. Walking around it you could find yourself thinking of Paris, as many of the buildings and wide streets, especially in the centre, have a very French feel: squares and boulevards and colonnades to stride in. The influence of our French neighbour as well as the former House of Savoy, is everywhere, but what is missing are the hordes of international tourists that swarm into the north’s other big city, Milan, just a two-hour drive away. It’s as if Turin has been kept secret for some reason. It has a wonderful café culture and many beautiful historic buildings to visit and cultural highlights to enjoy, including the world famous Egyptian and Film museums, the latter housed in Turin’s prominent landmark, the Mole Antonelliana, once Europe’s tallest brick building.
Post-Covid, there are new restaurants and small hotels opening and the region has gently adapted to this renewed interest and opportunity, and with UNESCO keeping its eye on building developments we’re spared any future monoliths to bad architectural design. This slow pace of change and an almost disregard for tourism does mean you won’t get a confected experience; you’re not bombarded by touristic tat or carolled into do this, do that. No, this is a quietly beautiful region where tradition and rural routines still dominate, and visitors can experience life here authentically, going with the flow. It’s really quite special and rare.
A true all-season destination
In Piedmont, every season has something wonderful to offer. Storybook vistas of rolling hills, framed by the ever-present mountains, pristine vineyards making some of the greatest wines in the world. The miles and miles of vines which adorn almost every hillside in our Monferrato region, awaken from their winter slumber each spring, turning the skeletal rows of the colder months into lush green avenues. Long, hot Mediterranean summers, during which it seems almost every weekend another wine, food or garden festival is happening somewhere in the grounds of an ancient palazzo or castle. In Autumn the mists roll in and out of the hollows, richly colourful and vibrant leaf displays are everywhere, and truffles and mushrooms make their annual appearance. And seemingly as quickly as it arrived, autumn gives way to cold winters with flurries of snow, twinkling frosts and clear sunny days.
Understanding Piemonte: take the time to ‘get it’
However, like the elusive white truffle that Piedmont is famous for, it is a region where a little searching and careful exploration will net you greater finds. This seeking out of experiences is also perhaps more necessary here than in those parts of Italy more geared to international tourists. Also, for those preferring experiential travel, there could perhaps be no better Italian destination.
There is something inherently organic about Piedmont’s pace; it is determined by the seasons most definitely; it ebbs and flows. Affluence, where is exists, is discreet, and while there are tourist websites for most towns and the region itself, you won’t easily find websites for some businesses, events and activities as you might expect. There is something of having to ‘turn the rocks’ in Piedmont, especially outside of cities in the countryside. An idiosyncratic approach to productivity or communications - and an instinctual, refreshing eschewing of the commercial in favour of the personal - means you can sometimes come away from searching for something online, or waiting for a response to multiple emails or phone messages, or even passing through a village where it would appear everything is closed, feeling no one actually really wants to sell you their product or service. So you have to look and persist. You have to be patient, and you absolutely have to rely on the recommendations of locals wherever you can get them. You must know which shop to knock on. This, of course, can be tough, especially if you are a visitor rather than a resident, but a little effort pays off.
We have personally never found the locals live up to their old reputation as reserved and aloof. On the contrary, we have found the Piemontese to be unfussy, genuine and kind – and more than willing to reach out or help with something. They are uncomfortable with praise or flattery – it’s not their style but love it when people love and understand their region.
In our own cumbersome way, we’re doing our best to try and fit in to the rhythm of our adopted homeland. Things take longer here, partly because we don’t know what we’re doing on many occasions, but also Italians have their own pace and rhythm to getting things done. There is often no hurry on anyone’s part to respond, turn-up or complete something, and now we simply expect this and go with it. Our language efforts, however imperfect they may be, are appreciated warmly by those we set out to engage with. Our insertion of the always popular phrase ‘La lingua italiana è molto difficile!’ is usually greeted with a knowing smile and, more often from anyone under 30, a near-perfect response in English, putting us to shame instantly. But our efforts, and our simply being here and contributing to Italy in our own way is both questioned and praised by our new comrades in equal measure. We’ve found ourselves becoming a little more Italian, or perhaps more Piemontese, as we too slow our pace of life. It is, after all, one of the reasons we moved here and it’s something we’re embracing with both arms.