Day Trip: Go West to Saluzzo
A perfect day trip or overnight treat in Piedmont: Saluzzo
Around an hour and a half car journey from Villa Menaluna in the province of Cuneo is the beautiful medieval town of Saluzzo. Situated on a hill overlooking farmed plains at the mouth of the river Po and the Bronda and Varaita valleys, it is the last major conurbation before the dramatic Cottian alps, and the stunning mountain views are dominated by majestic Monviso.
The town is small enough to make your way around easily, but large enough to have plenty of things to see and do. The central Piazza Liderico Vineis has several bars and cafes and is buzzy during the day and night. It’s also a good place to relax with a drink and something to eat (especially good piadinas at Bar Corona Grossa), and a perfect jumping off point to explore the cobbled streets and winding lanes of the old town. If you stay in town on a Friday night or arrive early on a Saturday there is also a lively market to enjoy, selling food, clothing and general goods. For cheese connoisseurs, this is the place to buy the famous Castlemagno.
Whilst it’s true that pretty much every town and city in Italy has one or several beautiful churches, those in Saluzzo are especially lovely. With some elements dating from the 15th century, the Cattedrale Sanata Maria Assunta, for example, is impressively large and ornate and has been lovingly and sensitively restored (not always the case with historic restorations in Italy…).
We stayed at the lovely San Giovanni Resort, housed in a former convent, and there are many other wonderful hotels and B&Bs in character buildings in the old town. What was lovely about San Giovanni Resort is how much of the original architectural features has been persevered and incorporated into the hotel.
The entrance to the rooms, for example, is made up of an original outer door with tilted hinges, that swings opens to reveal the inner door to the room on the inside of the thick stone wall. The ancient numbers that would have marked the monk’s accommodation are also still present, illuminated subtly by discreet lighting.
The impressive restaurant, Castellana San Giovannni, is part of the hotel and housed in the original high arched cellars. It’s a real highlight and marked out by modern touches – such as the uniform wall of illuminated bottles – alongside the original exposed brick walls of the cellar. The food here, as in many other places in Saluzzo, is on a par with anything you might find in a larger city.
For the best panoramic views of the mountains and town below, the ancient municipal tower at the top of the town dates back to 1462. It’s a short walk from San Giovanni Resort and is well worth the climb.
The town is also a good place to explore other parts of the west of Piedmont: check out the nearby pretty town of Manta, explore Cuneo - the capital of the province, or pay a visit to the home of the Slow Food Movement with a stop in Bra on your way back to Villa Menaluna.
But before you leave, be sure to take drive to Strada San Lorenzo, out of the main square at the entrance to the castle – La Castiglia – for those uninterrupted Monviso views.
Bar Corona Grossa - https://www.barcoronagrossa.it
San Giovanni Resort - https://www.sangiovanniresort.it
Castellana San Giovanni Ristorante - https://www.castellanait.com
Slow Food Movement - https://www.slowfood.com
