The Vendemmia: A Celebration of Tradition and Terroir

 
 

Whilst summer brings endless sunshine and heat – perfect for a conventional ‘summer holiday’, my favourite time is autumn and with it comes slightly cooler nights but still warming sunshine during the day, accompanied by the buzz of tractors ferrying grapes from vineyards to cellars all around us. Piedmont is renowned for its exquisite wines and the grape harvest is a time-honoured tradition that blends the essence of the land with the artistry of winemaking. With its rolling hills, picturesque vineyards and historic villages, Piedmont offers a perfect setting for this annual celebration of nature's bounty and human ingenuity.

As harvest season approaches, anticipation fills the air and winemakers meticulously plan their strategies to ensure the finest quality grapes are collected. Much conjecture is shared about the effects, good or bad, of this summer’s lack of rain or too much sun, with a farmer somewhere declaring it ‘the worst year ever’ at some point, only to be contradicted by a neighbour or fellow wine maker. Despite this annual banter, what is clear is that nothing is truly proven until the harvest is underway.

The grape harvest – Vendemmia - in Piedmont typically takes place from late August to early October, depending on the grape variety and the location of the vineyard. Around us here at Villa Menaluna the harvesting of Chardonnay and Moscato began in early August, earlier than normal by some reports, simply due to the intense heat of our summer this year. The region boasts a diverse range of grapes, but it is perhaps most famous for the Nebbiolo and Barbera grape, which are the foundation for some of Italy's most prestigious wines, including Barolo, Nizza, Barbera and Barbaresco.  

One of the defining characteristics of the grape harvest is the emphasis on manual labour. Unlike some modern winemaking regions that rely heavily on machinery, vineyards in Piedmont still prefer to harvest grapes by hand. This labour-intensive process allows workers to carefully select the ripest clusters and ensure that only the best grapes make it to the winery. It also preserves the integrity of the grape, as the gentle touch of human hands minimises the risk of damaging the fruit. But the harvest is not just a mechanical task; it is an immersive experience that brings communities together. Families and friends join forces to pick grapes under the warm autumn sun, fostering a sense of camaraderie and tradition. Songs and laughter echo through the vineyards as generations of winemakers and their families work side by side, preserving the customs passed down through the ages.

One of the key factors that make the grape harvest in Piedmont so special is the region's unique terroir. Terroir refers to the specific combination of soil, climate, and topography that influences the characteristics of the grapes and, consequently, the wine. Piedmont's terroir is exceptionally diverse, with a variety of microclimates and soil types that give rise to an array of grape flavours and aromas. This diversity is reflected in the vast range of wines produced in the region, from the bold and robust Barolos of the Langhe hills and Nizza here in Monferrato, to the elegant and fragrant Moscato d'Asti.

It's not only about collecting grapes but also about preserving the essence of the land. Winemakers in the region take great pride in their sustainable and organic farming practices, respecting the environment and ensuring the long-term health of their vineyards. This commitment to responsible viticulture not only produces exceptional wines but also reinforces the connection between the people, the land, and the grapes.

As the sun sets on a day of hard work, the harvest transitions into a time of celebration. Local festivals and gatherings take place throughout the region, where freshly harvested grapes are crushed to start the fermentation process. This marks the beginning of the winemaking journey, and it is a moment of both reverence and joy. Visitors to these festivities have the opportunity to taste the newly pressed grape juice, an experience that offers a glimpse into the promise of the vintage to come.

Harvest time is a harmonious blend of tradition, terroir and community, and a celebration of the dedication of its people and the artistry of winemaking. From the vineyard to the cellar, every step in the process reflects the passion and pride that define this region's winemaking heritage. It's not just an event; it is a timeless testament to the enduring connection between the people, the land, and the wines they create.

Steve