Winter: log fires, chilly walks and mountain views

Every season in Piedmont has something unique to offer, some different set of sensory pleasures, foods and culture. In winter the surrounding hills and fields are magically transformed by mists creeping up the valley and frost and snow creating the most breath-taking storybook views. Food and drink, always good, becomes about hearty roast meats, soups and stews - fantastic root vegetables alongside vibrant radicchio and fennel. Italians will be out and about enjoying the cafés and food markets which are often busy and bustling (puffer jackets and scarves appear to be mandatory from 1st Oct for Italians, whilst we are still wearing shorts). Italian towns and villages really go for it when it comes to Christmas lights and decorations, so its lovely to walk around and enjoy the outdoors anytime, but especially during chilly evenings. And then there are the Christmas markets in the strong European tradition of outdoor seasonal celebrations, complete with vin brule (a kind of mulled wine), alongside great events at local hotels, restaurants and winemakers.

In terms of visiting, December and January are often best. The weather is cold, but usually calm, with or without snow, and there are regularly gorgeous sunny days with crystal blue skies and truly dramatic views of the mountains. In the sun it can be really quite warm; for our first New Year’s Eve celebrations here we had friends staying and were able sit out in the garden with just a jumper on to enjoy our breakfast – in the sun only of course. Out of it, its winter-chilly again. This isn’t uncommon. February and March can be more unsettled and, we often say, contains winter’s stinging tail; lulled into a false sense of security by what might be a very pleasant December and January, a burst of snow and ice at the end of March or even the beginning of April can be a nasty surprise.

One of the aspects of life here that really appealed to us when exploring our move to Italy was that Piedmont had proper winters with snow, the seasons themselves distinct and more consistent and reliable in character. Jumpers and fires, warming up after a chilly walk. And so it has proved. Winters are often hard in Piedmont though apparently – according to local Italian friends – not as harsh as they used to be before climate change started to have an impact. We’re told that twenty years ago temperatures were often -6 or below and there was a lot more snow, up to one metre’s depth at times. They seem hard enough to us as it is now! Although as we’ve noticed and experienced since arriving, our elevation 300 metres up and sheltered in a nook on a hillside, means we benefit from a microclimate where there can be as much as five degrees difference between us and the villages at the bottom of the valley, and we are often sheltered from the worst of the winds.

The gearshift between seasons can often feel sudden, catching you off guard, especially when compared to somewhere like the UK. However, like clockwork we have come to expect the first snow in early December but the questions are always how much will we get and how long will it stay on the ground? The winters (and our 700-metre road to the house) make for some very hard work during the cold months; clearing the snow before it freezes, gathering and chopping logs from the hillside, preparing our boiler for the season, and to do this as much as possible before the really hard weather sets in. It can sound bucolic but its backbreaking stuff and perhaps a little more challenging at times than we expected.

Every season reveals a different view of the land around Villa Menaluna, with winter allowing you to see ‘what lies beneath’. The vegetation and woodlands are so dense and green for much of the year that you can genuinely forget what things look like pared back and somehow it always comes as a surprise to see. Its only when the flame colours of autumn have left the trees and vines, when they can stand bare and skeletal, that you can truly see how fiercely regimented the vineyards are, neatly following the contours of the undulating hillsides, as if stitching the land together into its patchwork. And for some reason the steepness of our own valley is thrown into relief: cliffs, sheer drops, ridges and deep crevasses carved into the stone, paths and tracks – some made by farmers, some by boar and deer, fallen trees, caves and hollows where subterranean channels carry away melts or heavy rains and funnelling it towards streams and overflow channels. You can see out-buildings, sheds and ancient structures - some clearly still used, some long abandoned, and the hard, stone ridges of our own hillside looking like the spines of prehistoric animals half buried beneath. Everything looks suddenly brutal and primal.

Finally, there are the mountains, and they are a true wonder. Winter is when they’re most visible. Breath-taking is an often-overused phrase, but there really isn’t any other appropriate description. From the Maritime Alps nestled between France and Italy to the dramatically close Cottian Alps dominated by Monviso – the inspiration for the Paramount ident. Then there is the main body of the Alps bordering Italy and Switzerland which sweeps across the top of the region and includes the range’s highest peak, Mont Blanc. As you work round, it also includes the uniquely shaped Matterhorn and huge Monte Rosa, both visible from Villa Menaluna. One of the best ways not only to see these beautiful and remarkable mountains, but to also get a sense of how they dominate the skyline, is to walk to our village of Rocchetta Palafea and climb to the seats at the base of the ancient tower. Turning from left to right it is truly possible to see why this region is called Piedmont: ‘foot of the mountain’.